Feature story for Bluffton Today >
Run Date: Wednesday, January 28, 2009
In the time it takes to drive from Bluffton to Atlanta, you can board a plane in Miami and arrive in Brazil. That's just what Bluffton resident Suelena Campion does with her family each December. Though it means missing some school and work and making serious budgetary and leisure travel restrictions throughout the year, the annual trip is important to the entire family and they make the most of every moment.
This year's trip started with a week in Manaus, a city that epitomizes Brazil's economic contrasts. Manaus rose up in the middle of the Amazon built on rubber fortunes. The city features buildings dating back to the turn of the century built from stones literally shipped from Europe. Nearby, tiny shacks huddle together on the banks of the Rio Negro and Rio Solimões whose side-by-side confluence without mixing mirrors the city itself.
Setting off on an Amazonian "survival walk," Sue's daughter Lisa wants to lead the way. Their guide shows them the wonders of the region including the hiding place of a 6-inch long ant whose painful sting is used as a ritualistic test of manhood by one local tribe. He also demonstrates a technique for blending into the jungle: stick your arm into an anthill and rub the ants all over your skin. This eradicates human smell, providing a distinct advantage when hunting. A visit to the National Institute for Research in the Amazon yields an exhibit featuring the largest leaf ever discovered in the region as well as sculptures and art of the native peoples.
After playing tourist and visiting family in Manaus, they travel another five hours through several airports to reach Sue's hometown of Florianopolis. Sue's mother and father, brother, nieces and nephews all live within a few blocks of one another. Here, the family settles in and the real business of the trip begins: Brazilian culture and language, up close and personal.
The last time they visited, Lisa spent the first week without saying a word. The second week she spoke a few words of Portuguese and by the third week was speaking comfortably. This year, Sue's parents spent much of November in Bluffton, speaking only Portuguese to Lisa. When she arrived in Florianopolis this time, there was no week of silence. She immediately found a group of friends who convinced her to join them in their Nativity pageant. She rehearsed for three nights and spoke her angelic lines without missing a beat.
Each year, since Lisa's birthday falls during their trip, she is allowed to pick one new thing to learn or do. Last trip, it was horseback riding. This year, surfing. Since Florianopolis has 44 beaches, there is ample opportunity. Though she grew up with surfers all around her, Sue never learned. Lisa was hanging ten after a few hours of expert instruction.
Back home in Bluffton, Sue speaks to Lisa in Portuguese and Lisa responds in English. Throughout the year, Sue often wondered if she was getting through. When she sees Lisa speaking to her family and Brazilian friends without any fear or hesitation, she knows she made the right choice. In Brazil, Lisa answers only in Portuguese.
"I can't pass up the opportunity to give her this education. Every parent who speaks another language should share it with their children -- they're listening even when you think they are not."
This year, they attended a book fair and Lisa started reading Portuguese as well, sounding out words and figuring them out by context. Lisa has resolved to teach her father in the coming year so his Portuguese will be all ready for the next trip. Lisa's dad Nigel comes to the United States via the United Kingdom, but as a veteran boat builder has adopted Florianopolis as his second home -- the 44 beaches make a pretty convincing argument. By virtue of Sue's status as a Brazilian national, Lisa holds dual citizenship and is a Brazilian citizen in her own right. During the Olympics this year, she rooted for Brazil and the U.K. during soccer events, but she cheered hardest for the U.S. when they took the field. Multiculturalism has its advantages: there's always someone to root for.
Throughout the trip, Lisa sent pictures back to her classmates at M.C. Riley with details of her explorations. The class eagerly awaited each installment, as did many of their parents. She took her responsibilities as cultural ambassador seriously, taking the class mascot with her on her jungle hike.
For the first time, the Campions were able to stay in Florianopolis through New Year's Eve and participated in the traditions that shaped Sue's youth. Everyone wears white, goes down to the beach and has a huge party. It's summer in Brazil, so you won't see any Times Square scarves and hats. At midnight, they jump seven waves, eat 12 grapes, light candles in the sand to honor the water queen and shoot off fireworks. There's champagne and dancing, too. Some things are universal.